Exfoliation 101

[karen]

I came up with this last night...it's a basic overview of exfoliators. I looove them because they make my skin feel fresh and smooth, but a little caution is needed when you're using them.

Exfoliation 101

Your skin is topped with few layers of dead skin cells. They're there to protect you from the elements, and because they support a small ecosystem of beneficial bacteria (like the ones that live in your intestines to help you digest food). In theory, as new skin cells are made the old ones get pushed off- but sometimes that system doesn't quite work as well as it should, and the dead cells build-up. It can lead to dullness, flaking, and clogged pores. That's where exfoliation can help!

The theory behind all exfoliators is that they cause a little bit of damage to the skin, and the skin responds by making new cells faster. Increasing the rate of cellular turnover helps with fine lines, wrinkles, getting rid of scars, and acne. The trick is in not damaging your skin so much that it's truly injured and raw.

I cannot emphasize enough that those dead skin cells are there for a reason- they're good, healthy, and absolutlely necessary in moderation. It pays to be as gentle as possible with your facial skin because it tends to be more delicate, and prone to injury. Yes- you do need some exfoliation, but in general I think a lot of people exfoliate more than they need to

There are 2 ways to exfoliate the skin- manual exfoliators like microdermabrasion cream, wash cloths, brushes, scrubs etc., and there are chemical exfoliators like AHA, BHA, and Vitamin A derivities like Retin-A. You should never ever mix manual and chemical exfoliators- it's too much, and you'll end up doing your skin more harm than good. You need at least 24 hours between types of exfoliators, and in the case of stronger acids, and retinoids- sometimes much longer.

Because your skin is literally thinner it's not as protected from the sun, so please be extra sure to use sunblock when you're using any of the chemical exfoliators. Most exfoliators should be used only at night so your skin has a chance for the redness to subside and heal.

Here's a quick overview of exfoliators:
AHA's work by dissolving the water based "glue" that holds the dead skin cells in place. They're also "water binders" so they're good for dry, dehydrated skin. I feel like they're the most "brightening" of the exfoliators. AHA's are derived from fruit, and there are a few different kinds- citric from citrus, malic from apples, glycolic from sugar, lactic from milk, and tartaric from grapes. They all have different molecule sizes, and are used in different applications. Glycolic has the smallest molecule size so it penetrates the deepest- it also has the largest potential for irritation. We use lactic because it has the lowest potential for irritation- the results are more gradual, but you won't experience as much of the redness, flaking, and irritation. They're generally safe to use when you're pregnant or nursing- but please consult your doctor.

BHA is Salisylic Acid- and it's very closely related to aspirin. BHA dissolves oils, and actually goes into the pores to dissolve the excess oil. They're great for clogged skin, and wonderful for shaving bumps. You should not use BHA if you're allergic to aspirin, or when you're pregnant or nursing.

You can combine AHA's and BHA and use them on the same day- but you CANNOT use them along with a Vitamin A derivitive / retinoid- you also CANNOT use them after physical exfoliation. You need at least 1 day between a scrub and a hydroxy acid- more if you're using a retinoid. Consult your doctor if you're using retinoids, and want to also use acids.

Abrasive exfoliators work like sand paper, and they're available in different particle sizes for different parts of your body. They're great for thick, dry, flaking skin, and I feel like they're the best option for people who haven't had a lot of experience with exfoliation- or gently gently in combination with other exfoliators if you're experiencing a lot of flaking- but on separate days, and always AFTER a chemical exfoliator (the other way around stings a lot).
A little tip: If you put an acid on your skin and it hurts too much- put some baking soda on your skin to neutralize the acid and stop the sting.



How often should you exfoliate?
It depends on your skin. In general, the thinner, drier, and more sensitive your skin is the less you should exfoliate. Some people with thick, oily skin can use them every day- some people can only use them a few times a week. Stop, or cut-back on the percentage of active ingredient you're using if you experience excess pain, redness, flaking, or irritation. Slow and steady wins the race, and there aren't many benefits to stripping your skin raw. There are times when deeper exfoliation is warrented- like if you really need to get rid of something FAST- but deeper exfoliation should only be done by trained professionals to minimize the risk of scarring and infection, and to help you deal with the side effects.

[Cupcake]

Outstanding work, Karen. That's an awesome tutorial which so many people will find highly educational. Thank you so much!

[freesilk]

Thank you for posting that! I'm pretty new to exfoliating and I found that extremely helpful!

[Shirin]

yes, taht was a great tutorial, thanks!

[zeebs]

My skin doesn't respond well to salicylic acid. Should I not use the BHA, or is the white willow bark a different form than the kind dermatologists prescribe? I'm not allergic to aspirin; I take it all the time. I just have sensitive skin. Additionally I can't use alcohol toners but I can use witch hazel toners (not sure if that's relevant or not).

[karen]

It's a little bit different but essentially the same- the willow bark extract doesn't really perform much differently than the regular salicylic acid. The only real difference between ours and most of the other stuff is that regular salicylic is a powder, and it only really dissolves in alcohol, or things that are pretty much alcohol. The one that I use is a standardized liquid extract that doesn't have to be dissolved in alcohol- so I think it feels a bit better on the skin- and I mix it with aloe to help with the stinging.

[pinkpomelo]

That's a very very good summary of How To Exfoliate. Especially the past about allowing a few days in between exfoliations, whether its chemical or physical.

I was so excited to try out the AHA toner that I didn't take into account that I had just used the microdermabrasion cream a couple of days before. My skin really felt WARM and turned red. It stayed WARM and felt slightly prickly on the cheeks for the rest of the night. I'm not sure if its because of the strength of the AHA alone or the fact that I used it too soon after scrubbing.

But I must say that the next morning, my skin felt ultra smooth to the touch, albeit still reddish.

I also layered on the DMAE serum on top of the AHA toner, so now I have no idea what triggered the warm, prickly feeling and redness. Haha. I'm such an impatient monkey.

[karen]

AHA is always going to sting and feel warm...it's how you know it's working. After a while your skin kind of builds-up a better resistance to them so you don't feel them as much, but no they're not the most fun thing to use. I'm just hooked on the glow.

[violet]

and for how long should i use AHA toner? now,i´m using it every night but i would like to know if i should use it for week,month or forever?

[Rhys]

Forever works, but probably only one to three times per week once you've got the worst of the dull dead skin off your face - for most women exfoliating every day with an AHA isn't a great idea.