Exfoliation 101

[karen]

Yes what Rhys said. Your skin can build a tolerance to it- at one point I got to 12% every night- but that took a while to build up to that. If you're red, or irritated just use it every other night. Unless you're switching to another type of exfoliator it's a bit better to stay on it at least once or twice a week once you're used to it- otherwise you have to get used to it again, but it's not a big deal to stop.

[short_skirts]

Are the BHA's and AHA's similar (at all) to the Paula's Choice ones? I LOVE both of them, but would love a more...affordable version! Just wondering if these were skincare clones?

Thanks!

[karen]

I hadn't planned them that way- but I just checked their site, and they're sorta similar. Both our AHA and BHA toners are liquids with no thickeners- it looks like the PC ones are thickened with a few things. In PC's AHA they use glycolic acid- we use lactic. Glycolic is a smaller molecule so it penetrates deeper into the skin, but I went with the lactic because it's not as irritating, and still pretty effective for boosting cell turnover. Our BHA uses willow extract that's standardized to contain x amount of salicylic acid- in the PC one they use regular salicylic. I personally don't use that at the moment because it needs to be dissolved in alcohol or something like alcohol and I wanted to do something alcohol-free. There's nothing wrong with it- but if you're putting it on freshly waxed skin no alcohol is the way to go.

[short_skirts]

Thanks! I'm definetly going to try it out (and the apricot oil!)!

[karen1950]

I'm loving the bha, but i was reading on some cosmetics safety sites that bha and aha are dangerous. But it sounds like the amounts on here are safe, expect for pregnant women, right?

[lilychemgirl]

How do people apply the AHA and BHA toners? I hate using a cotton ball, but you don't really want to spray that stuff near your eyes I would love a lotion/gel (preferably AHA, I used to love the Paula's Choice 8% glycolic gel) that would be a bit easier to apply.
Also, how does 8% lactic compare to 8% glycolic as far as action is concerned?

[la_canadiense(01)]

How do people apply the AHA and BHA toners? I hate using a cotton ball, but you don't really want to spray that stuff near your eyes I would love a lotion/gel (preferably AHA, I used to love the Paula's Choice 8% glycolic gel) that would be a bit easier to apply.
Also, how does 8% lactic compare to 8% glycolic as far as action is concerned?

I actually prefer glycolic to lactic. I think everyone's skin needs something different, and mine just responds better to glycolic acid. I don't think there is any difference as far as action from the two of them, maybe lactic is more gentle? on the GoW forum they confirm that pregnant women shouldnt use acids, except maybe lactic acid at a very low percentage and ph. Apparently, the PH of the acid has as much to do as the %. If you are interested, GoW has some information on explaining skin PH. I found it very informative, since I didn't understand PH at all. I have a sample of their 10% (ph 1.9) tonic gel, it is glycolic acid.
I would love if Karen made a creamy cleanser or gel tonic with glycolic acid. I have the FS lactic one but sadly it doesn't work for me

one last link: info on different acids

Hope it is ok that I post those here....if not please delete this post. I am not advertising, they are only links to discussions of acids, etc...

[Maria_Elvira]

How do people apply the AHA and BHA toners? I hate using a cotton ball, but you don't really want to spray that stuff near your eyes I would love a lotion/gel (preferably AHA, I used to love the Paula's Choice 8% glycolic gel) that would be a bit easier to apply.
Also, how does 8% lactic compare to 8% glycolic as far as action is concerned?

I just splash a little amount into my hands and dab it onto my face. I think that works just fine for me, with that said I do only have a sample of the aha and since I have used that container (or whatever it is called) it has worked fine. Maybe it is harder to get a smaller amount out of the regular containers?

[lilychemgirl]

Thanks for the links Lacanadiense.
I think maybe my question wasn't clear, I do understand how the acids work, and I know that lactic is supposed to be gentler than glycolic, so I was just wondering how much less effective an 8% lactic acid solution is compared to the 8% glycolic. It would actually be a slightly less concentrated solution, as lactic has a slightly heavier molecular weight, so I also wonder about the magic 8% - is that a limit imposed by some regulatory body? Why 8% and not 10% or whatever?
Has anyone used both (maybe the Paula's choice glycolic one and the SN lactic one) and has an opinion on their relative effectiveness?
Thanks,
Lily

[la_canadiense(01)]

Thanks for the links Lacanadiense.
I think maybe my question wasn't clear, I do understand how the acids work, and I know that lactic is supposed to be gentler than glycolic, so I was just wondering how much less effective an 8% lactic acid solution is compared to the 8% glycolic. It would actually be a slightly less concentrated solution, as lactic has a slightly heavier molecular weight, so I also wonder about the magic 8% - is that a limit imposed by some regulatory body? Why 8% and not 10% or whatever?
Has anyone used both (maybe the Paula's choice glycolic one and the SN lactic one) and has an opinion on their relative effectiveness?
Thanks,
Lily

hmmm, ( I remember now you have a science hubby right? I do to!! they sure make life interesting, and they definitely don't get makeup. I was telling him about the comment your DH made - at the time I didn't remember who it was - something about not having a measure by which to evaluate if your makeup looks good or not...- he couldnt stop laughing, seriously, he thought it was the funniest ever....anywhooo....)

anyhow, ok, so you understand acids... I still don't - but certainly better than before....

I have seen 10% of both glycolic and lactic available before. I used to use a 5% glycolic acid cream cleanser and I have used the 8% lactic toner, and I found the glycolic still better, and I could feel the acid working for the 5% Glycolic and I couldn't feel anything when I used the 8% lactic ( I would leave the cream cleanser on as a treatment for 10-15 minutes). I dont like to use an acid when I don't feel anything...makes me think nothing is happening, although that is maybe not true....probably not true.

I don't know what the difference in concentration would be between the 8% lactic and the 10% glycolic I now use, but I have already seen improvements on the little lines around my eyes and mouth. THey were never very deep, and after a good wash and loads of hydration, they seem to plump out on their own, but by the end of the day, my skin is less hydrated and the lines more noticable, but I have seen this reduced since starting the 10% - I have used it 3 times...
I am probably not answering your question still...sorry.... I am not the scientist in the family for good reason. but I am trying!!!